7 May 2017
Weeknight Tagliatelle with Bolognese Sauce
Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, January 2017
Bolognese is a rich meaty sauce that traditionally consists of many different meats cooked for a long period of time. In this recipe, the Test Kitchen set out to develop a recipe for a Bolognese that could be prepared on a week night, something good to eat but not requiring a lot of time in the kitchen.
To achieve their goals, the test cooks used several techniques to develop flavor in a short period of time. A flavor base of pancetta, carrot, onion, and celery is prepared in a food processor then cooked until quite dark. To this, tomato paste is added and browned. Ground beef which has been treated with a baking soda solution to raise its pH (promoting tenderness) is added along with concentrated beef stock, red wine, and a generous quantity of grated parmesan. Finally, good quality tagliatelle which had been cooked separately is added to the sauce. (The recipe called for just 4 quarts of water to cook the pasta. I added an additional 4 quarts to ensure the pasta was covered with water.) All in all it took just 1½ hours to create this dish.
The pasta was served with a simple side salad, some home made bread, and red wine and it was garnished with some additional parmesan. (We buy small blocks of parmesan that we grate on a microplane, much less expensive and fresher than the parmesan in the green tube.) We enjoyed this flavorful pasta dish from the start and as a leftover for many more meals. It kept well in the refrigerator. We found the pasta strands to be too long for convenient eating and so for the leftovers we cut them into shorter pieces. The recipe says it serves 4 to 6, the two of us had it for 5 or 6 meals over the course of a few weeks.
22 May 2017
Steak and Ale Pie
Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, March 2017
This British dish looked interesting when I read about it in Cook's Illustrated. It is a meat pie with no vegetables, unless you count mushrooms. It also has no bottom crust. So you can think of it as a savory braised beef with a crust topping. It is probably more of a cool weather dish, but I didn't wait until Fall to try it.
The recipe calls for three pounds of boneless beef short ribs. I was unable to get these at the supermarket so I purchased 3.8 pounds of bone-in short ribs. I had less beef than in the recipe after removing bones and trimming fat; I should have gone for the alternative chuck-eye roast which would probably have cost less as well. The filling is made by first treating the beef with a baking soda solution. Bacon is rendered then a pound of cremini mushrooms is added with some beef broth and cooked. Onion, garlic, and thyme are added and cooked until a fond starts to form. (I had no dry thyme so used some Herbes de Provence in its place.) Some flour is added and cooked, then beef broth and beer (Newcastle brown ale) are used to deglaze the pot. This mixture is cooked in the oven for about an hour and a half. For the last half hour I removed the lid because the sauce seemed thin to me. When the beef was tender it was added to a pie dish and covered with the pastry dough. The dough was very easy to work with. It incorporates both egg and sour cream along with butter, flour, and salt. The pie is then baked for 30 minutes. Total time to create this dish was three hours, half of which was hands off. It will create four meals for the two of us.
We both really enjoyed this savory beef pie. The sauce was delicious and the beef was extremely tender, more tender than the mushrooms. The crust was crisp and flaky but the real star of the dish is the rich beefy filling.