August 2026
Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, July 2026
I’ve long used the Potato Burger Buns recipe from Bread Illustrated to make both slider buns and top-loading hot dog buns (baked in groups of ten in a specialized pan). However, a recent issue of Cook's Illustrated featured a Shrimp Roll recipe accompanied by a "Kitchen Notes" section with a standalone recipe for top-loading buns. Inspired, I decided to give this newer method a spin.
The Process
Tangzhong/Flour Paste: Made by whisking flour and milk together in a bowl, then microwaving until thickened.
Mixing: The paste was whisked with chilled milk and an egg in a stand mixer bowl. After adding flour and yeast, the mixture was stirred with the dough hook until just moistened.
Rest & Kneading: Following a 15-minute rest, sugar and salt were added, and the dough was kneaded for 5 minutes. After scraping the bowl, softened butter was added, followed by another 5 minutes of machine kneading.
Rising & Baking: I gave the dough a brief final knead by hand before letting it rise for an hour at room temperature. The dough was then shaped, transferred to the bun pan, and baked to an internal temperature above 200°F. The total time, other than cooling, was about 2½ hours
The Results The resulting buns turned out wonderfully:
Structure: They held up impressively well to hot dogs and condiments without getting soggy.
Toasting & Storage: Buttered and toasted in a skillet, they browned beautifully. They also froze and thawed well.
Crumb: While I didn't run a strict side-by-side test, this method yielded a softer crumb than the potato-based dough.
Verdict Both this new version and the classic potato bun recipe yield great hot dog rolls. However, thanks to the softer texture and great structural integrity, this new recipe is my new top choice.
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