DIY Split-Top Buns

 August 2026

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, July 2026

I’ve long used the Potato Burger Buns recipe from Bread Illustrated to make both slider buns and top-loading hot dog buns (baked in groups of ten in a specialized pan). However, a recent issue of Cook's Illustrated featured a Shrimp Roll recipe accompanied by a "Kitchen Notes" section with a standalone recipe for top-loading buns. Inspired, I decided to give this newer method a spin.

The Process

• Tangzhong/Flour Paste: Made by whisking flour and milk together in a bowl, then microwaving until thickened.

• Mixing: The paste was whisked with chilled milk and an egg in a stand mixer bowl. After adding flour and yeast, the mixture was stirred with the dough hook until just moistened.

• Rest & Kneading: Following a 15-minute rest, sugar and salt were added, and the dough was kneaded for 5 minutes. After scraping the bowl, softened butter was added, followed by another 5 minutes of machine kneading.

• Rising & Baking: I gave the dough a brief final knead by hand before letting it rise for an hour at room temperature. The dough was then shaped, transferred to the bun pan, and baked to an internal temperature above 200°F. The total time, other than cooling, was about 2½ hours

The Results The resulting buns turned out wonderfully:

• Structure: They held up impressively well to hot dogs and condiments without getting soggy.

• Toasting & Storage: Buttered and toasted in a skillet, they browned beautifully. They also froze and thawed well.

• Crumb: While I didn't run a strict side-by-side test, this method yielded a softer crumb than the potato-based dough.

Verdict Both this new version and the classic potato bun recipe yield great hot dog rolls. However, thanks to the softer texture and great structural integrity, this new recipe is my new top choice.

One-Pan Lemony Cod with Potatoes and Green Beans

August 2026

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, May 2026

America’s Test Kitchen recently streamlined the article format in Cook's Illustrated, shortening the development stories and introducing a new two-page section called "Dinner Tonight," which features four condensed recipes. This was my first attempt at one of these scaled-down recipes. I used the slightly expanded online version, where several commenter warnings about overcooked fish and undercooked vegetables proved prescient.

To scale the meal down for two, I adapted the recipe using a 10-inch nonstick skillet instead of the specified 12-inch pan. I reduced the cod to ⅔ lb—a practical fit for my frozen fillets—and halved the remaining ingredients. I also picked up a jar of preserved lemon from Whole Foods, an ingredient new to my pantry.

Attempt 1: Following the Script (Scaled Down)

• The Process: I layered sliced, unpeeled red potatoes in the skillet, seasoned them with salt and pepper, and topped them with raw onion rings, finely chopped preserved lemon, and a splash of Chardonnay. Covered, the pan boiled for 3 minutes before a quick stir. Next, I placed the cod fillets over the vegetables, covered the pan, and set it to simmer over medium heat.

• The Result: After just 5 minutes, the fish was already sitting at well over 150°—way past the targeted 100° midpoint. I scattered fresh green beans, unsalted butter, and more preserved lemon over top, covered, and cooked for a final 5 minutes before finishing with fresh lemon juice and dill. Total time: 45 minutes.

• Verdict: Despite execution flaws, the flavor profile was a win. The combination of lemon and potato worked surprisingly well, and the one-pan setup made both cooking and cleanup effortless. However, the online commenters were right: the green beans were underdone, and the fish was noticeably overcooked.

Attempt 2: Course Correction

For round two, I made a few key adjustments to fix the cooking sequence:

• Thinner Potatoes: I used a mandoline to slice the potatoes to a uniform 3/16-inch thickness (down from hand-sliced 1/4-inch), ensuring an even, tender bite.

• Reordered Stagger: I added the green beans before the fish, letting them steam for 5 minutes first.

• Gentler Fish Timing: I set the cod on top of the beans and cooked until it reached an internal temperature of 140° (about 9 minutes).

  These adjustments made a night-and-day difference. The cod remained moist, the beans cooked through, and the potatoes were perfectly tender. While tucking the beans under the fish made the plating slightly less photogenic, the improved texture was well worth the trade-off.

Given how basic these timing issues were, it does make me wonder if the condensed "Dinner Tonight" recipes receive the same rigorous testing ATK usually applies to its flagship features. Still, with these small tweaks, it is a keeper.

Chicken Under a Brick

August 2026

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, March 2026

It has been several months since my last post, but for good reason: our kitchen underwent a complete renovation. Now that the dust has settled, I am thoroughly enjoying being back in the space and putting the new setup to work with new recipes.

A recent issue of Cook’s Illustrated featured a Tuscan-style roast chicken that caught my eye. The technique calls for spatchcocking (butterflying) a four-pound chicken and weighing it down during cooking to speed up the process. Naturally, I had to test if it actually streamlined the cooking time as promised.

The Process

First, I removed the backbone from a four-pound chicken and flattened it by pressing firmly on the breastbone. I loosened the skin and salted the flesh underneath. Next, I heated oil in a skillet until just smoking, then laid the chicken skin-side down, weighing it down with a cast-iron Dutch oven (no bricks on hand today!).

After five minutes on the stovetop, the entire setup—skillet, chicken, and Dutch oven—went into a 400°F oven. Twenty minutes later, I removed the Dutch oven, flipped the chicken over, and let it finish roasting until the thickest part of the breast reached 150°F.

While the chicken roasted, I whipped up a quick sauce using fresh lemon zest and juice, fresh parsley and  rosemary, mustard, garlic, and black pepper. The sauce was finished by adding some of the drippings from the chicken once it was done. My only tweak to the original recipe was omitting the red pepper flakes.

The Verdict

From prep to placing the chicken in the oven took just 20 minutes, with the total time from start to finish clocking in at a little over an hour.

The results were excellent. The chicken was tender and remarkably juicy across four separate dinners for two. The herb-lemon sauce added a vibrant, tangy lift that complemented the roasted flavor perfectly. If you are looking for a efficient, straightforward way to prep high-quality meals for the week, this technique is well worth adding to your routine.

Skillet-Roasted Chicken Breasts

February 2026

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, January 2026

I’m almost always up for trying a simple chicken recipe, and this one fits the bill—easy enough for a weeknight and paired with a flavorful pan sauce made from pantry staples.

I halved the recipe for the two of us and substituted granulated garlic for fresh. Two bone-in breasts were seasoned with kosher salt under the skin, which I pricked to help render the fat before lightly spraying with oil. I started them skin side down on the stovetop until well browned, then flipped and finished them in a 325° oven to 160° internal temperature.

After removing the chicken, I returned the skillet to the heat and cooked the juices until they formed a dark fond. Butter and granulated garlic went in, followed by orange zest and thyme. Once fragrant, I stirred in orange juice and whole-grain mustard. Off heat, I added another strip of zest and a few fresh thyme sprigs. The chicken was removed from the bones, sliced, and served with the sauce. Total time was just under an hour.

The dish lived up to expectations. The chicken was tender and the sauce a nice complement, though the mustard was the dominant flavor. Halving the recipe gave us dinner for two nights. I’d make it again—perhaps trying the lime-hoisin or pineapple-cilantro variations next time.