One-Pot Simple Pot Roast with Root Vegetables

 December 2024

Recipe from America's Test Kitchen

Every now and then I try a new recipe for pot roast. None so far have measured up to my memories of the pot roast that my mom made. I don't know how closely my memories match the reality.  But my memories are my memories so I am still looking. This recipe recently appeared in the ATK TV show and so I gave it a shot. 

I bought a 3.1-pound chuck roast, a little smaller than what the recipe specified. The recipe instructed this to be split into two pieces along a natural fat seam, but in my roast the seam was close to one edge of the roast so I skipped this step and tied up the whole roast. The beef was browned in a Dutch oven then removed to a plate. Diced onion and celery were cooked until softened then garlic, sugar, and thyme were added. After a brief cook beef broth, chicken broth, and water were added. The roast was returned to the Dutch oven, covered, and cooked in a 300° oven for 2 hours. The pot was removed from the oven so carrots, red potatoes, and parsnips could be added. The covered pot was returned to the oven and cooked until the vegetables were tender. The pot was removed from the oven and the roasts and vegetables were removed from the pot. Fat was skimmed from the braising liquid then some red wine was added. The sauce was simmered for 15 minutes or so. Total time was about 5 hours.

My initial impressions are probably too negative. I thought the meat and vegetables were bland and the meat was on the dry side. However, these are faults that might be due to errors on my part. I forgot to add salt to the sauce and to the vegetables. At the table I also could have used more sauce on the meat than I chose which should have helped with the dryness. When serving this meal as leftovers I was able to fix some of these errors. I did like this being a one-pot meal which helped with clean-up and the vegetables are good. So the jury might be out and I should try this again but pay closer attention to some of the finishing details. For the two of us we should get 4 or 5 meals from this roast with vegetables and sauce.

Weeknight Roast Chicken

December 2024

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, September 2011

This recipe was described in a podcast I listen to in the context of the 25th anniversary of America's Test Kitchen. Cook's Illustrated has published many recipes for roast chicken. This one appealed to me because of its simplicity.

I bought a 3.8 pound, air-chilled, chicken at Whole Foods, just the right size for this recipe. A 12-inch skillet was put into a 450° oven. The chicken was dried with paper towels, rubbed with olive oil, and seasoned with salt and pepper. The legs were tied together and the wing tips tucked behind its back. The chicken was placed, breast side up, in the hot skillet and returned to the hot oven. After about 30 minutes, when the breast reached 120° and the thighs 135°, the oven was turned off. The chicken was removed after another half hour, when the breast registered 160° and the thighs 175°, and rested for 20 minutes. The chicken was done roasting after 85 minutes and served after 105 minutes. It served the two of us for three meals.

While the chicken roasted ingredients were prepared for a pan sauce: shallot, chicken broth, Dijon mustard, butter, fresh herbs (a mixture of rosemary, sage, and thyme in place of tarragon), and lemon juice. All but 1 tablespoon of fat was poured from the skillet and discarded. Minced shallot was added and cooked over medium-high heat. Chicken broth and mustard were stirred in and simmered for several minutes. Off heat the butter, herbs, and lemon juice were whisked in. 

For such an easy preparation this chicken is very good, juicy and moist. The pan sauce is okay but does provide some extra flavor for the chicken. The thighs were a little underdone so we had them the second night after they were reheated in the sauce. The recipe specified the time as 1¼ hours, I postulate my time was greater because it includes the time needed to preheat the oven.

Chocolate Olive Oil Cake

 November 2024

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, November 2023

A few years ago I made Olive Oil Cake. Despite the name, I was pleasantly surprised at how good it was. It did not taste of olives, it was very moist, and had a great room-temperature shelf life. I was thus happy when a chocolate version of the cake recipe was published. I had to try it.

Olive oil and bittersweet chocolate were microwaved in a bowl until the chocolate was melted. Flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt were whisked together in a bowl. In another bowl, sugar, eggs, and an egg yolk were whisked. The chocolate olive oil mixture was added and whisked to combine. Milk was whisked into the mixture. The flour mixture was whisked into the liquid mixture. The batter was poured into a greased springform pan and dusted with granulated sugar. It was baked in a 350°  oven for about 40 minutes. Total time from start to taking it from the oven was one hour with 40 minutes of that baking time. 

This cake was very easy to make requiring just 20 minutes from beginning until it was ready for the oven.  No stand mixer was used, common ingredients, all mixing was done by hand, and no frosting. The cake was very moist for each of the four evenings that we had it but even so we enjoyed it with a scoop of ice cream on the side.  It is not the most intense chocolate cake you've ever had, but it is still very good, especially given how little time needs to be invested to make it.

Sweet-and-Sour Chicken

 November 2024

Recipe from Cook's Country, June 2016

I don't remember why I added this recipe to a list of recipes that I might want to try. However, I do like dishes like these, in general, and the photo in the recipe looks good so I gave it a try. If I had read more of the recipe before buying the ingredients I might have given it a second thought as I didn't realize it involved deep frying.

I started by preparing the ingredients for the chicken, including heating 48 ounces (two bottles) of peanut oil in a Dutch oven. A pound of boneless, skinless chicken breast was cut into ½-inch wide strips. To make the batter for the chicken flour, cornstarch, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and pepper were whisked  together in a large bowl. Water and oil were added and whisked until smooth. Red bell peppers and scallions were cut into 1-inch pieces. Half of the chicken pieces were coated with the batter then moved, 1-piece at a time, into 375° oil using tongs. They cooked for just a few minutes until golden then transferred to paper towels to drain. The second half of the chicken was then fried. For the first batch the temperature dropped as los as 290°. For the second batch I turned up the heat the oil temperature only dropped to about 310°, still well below recipe recommendations. The red bell peppers were then fried as were the scallions.

The sauce was made (between preparing and cooking the chicken) by mixing pineapple juice, orange juice, distilled white vinegar, water, sugar, ketchup, pepper flakes (I used half of what the recipe specified) and salt. The mixture was brought to a boil, simmered to reduce its volume, then thickened using a cornstarch slurry.  The chicken and vegetables were combined and one cup of sauce was stirred in. Total time was just under 90 minutes.

After reading the recipe I was expecting preparing this dish would be a project. In terms of time it was not. However in terms of clean up it was. Not only was there a lot of used cooking oil to deal with but there were also a lot of dirty dishes. I was not all sufficiently impressed with the result to want to make it again given the effort. The chicken coating was suitably crispy but the disappointing sauce, which was thin and soaked into the coating, was not very flavorful. The leftovers were okay but there was nothing crispy about the coating.

Drop Meatballs for Two

November 2024

Recipe from Cook's Country, October 2022.  

I have made meatballs a few times using several recipes, but none that I was happy with. It's not that they didn't taste good, but either they created a big mess on the stove with a lot of dirty oil to clean up or the meatballs fell apart. This simple recipe was appealing both because it is labelled as being "for two" and it promised a streamlined process to a delicious result.

I used 90% lean ground beef rather than 85% because that is what the supermarket had on hand. I had no ground fennel so I used a mortar and pestle and ground fennel seeds; ½ teaspoon of seeds provided ½ of ground fennel. As I often do, the quantity of red pepper flakes was reduced by half from that in the recipe.

A panade was made with saltines and milk. This was combined with ground beef, grated Parmesan cheese, salt, granulated garlic, ground oregano, and fennel. Six meatballs were made from this mixture using a #16 portion scoop. The simple sauce was made by cooking crushed garlic in olive oil. Pepper flakes were added and cooked until fragrant followed by a can of crushed tomatoes. The meatballs were nestled in the sauce and cooked for about 25 minutes. Total time was 65 minutes, not counting cooking the pasta.

This recipe "for two" provided three meals for us, served over spaghetti. It provided good, firm meatballs with little fuss and not a lot of time. The meatballs were a little bland, compared to fried meatballs, as I recall them, but without the mess that comes from frying. The blandness in this case may also have arisen from the relatively lean ground beef and it is also possible that they were overcooked. All in all, this is a good recipe to use for meatballs in a simple tomato sauce.

Ultimate Cream of Tomato Soup

October 2024

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, November 1999

I have made tomato soup using several different recipes and have written about some of them here.  Unfortunately it is not practical to compare the several recipes and my memory is not good enough to do a comparison that is not side-by-side. But I can try the recipe and write about the results so I have something to go by the next time I want to make, in this case, tomato soup.

I made just two changes to the ingredients, omitting both the brandy and the cayenne pepper. The key ingredient is two cans of whole tomatoes packed in juice. The tomatoes were drained, retaining the juice, and seeded. They were sprinkled with brown sugar and roasted to bring out their flavor. While the tomatoes roasted and cooled, the remaining ingredients were prepared. Then, diced shallots, tomato paste, and allspice were cooked in a large saucepan. Flour was added and cooked. Chicken stock, reserved tomato juice, and roasted tomatoes were stirred in and simmered to blend flavors. The mixture was strained and the solids were blended with 1 cup of the liquids until smooth. The pureed mixture, strained liquids, and cream were stirred together in a cleaned saucepan and cooked over low heat. Salt was added to finish the dish. Total time was 1 hour, 40 minutes.

We liked the soup and were impressed with its sweet and strong tomato flavor. The texture was just right for tomato soup. Diane commented that it was better than recipes that used bread as a thickener. The recipe made enough soup for 3-4 dinners for two. 

Double-Glazed Salmon

 10 June 2023

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, September 2022, p. 8

I've been wanting to increase the amount of fish that we eat, for various reasons. Over the last few years, Whole Foods has started stocking portioned, frozen fillets of various varieties of fish. (For example, these farm-raised Atlantic salmon.) These are very convenient! They sit in the freezer so they are always available. They are pre-portioned and individually wrapped so there is no waste as we always have an appropriate amount to use for dinner for two.  Coming from Whole Foods I trust that the fish are harvested from a sustainable population. We started with haddock and cod and have slowly added to our selection, primarily salmon with both farm-raised and wild varieties available. A recent Cook's Illustrated recipe for glazed salmon was very timely, providing a quick, easy way to cook salmon. This is really three recipes in one as it includes directions for three different glazes: gingery cider glaze, lemony thyme glaze, and smoky maple glaze. 

The salmon was brined in a solution of salt and sugar for 15 minutes. During this time the glaze was prepared. (These are simple glazes which require little more than combining the ingredients in a small sauce pan on the stove, bringing them to a simmer, and cooking until thickened.) The fillet(s) were patted dry with paper towels then cooked in a small amount of oil in a skillet, flesh side down, until well browned. The fillet was flipped, brushed with glaze, and transferred to a 300° oven, and cooked to an internal temperature of 125°.  The remaining glaze was brushed onto the fish. Total time was about 45 minutes.

We've enjoyed this recipe and all three of the glazes, it is now my go-to way for preparing salmon. The primary challenge is not overcooking these thin pieces of fish. After the browning step the fish is almost done so the time in the oven can be short. The smoky maple glaze is our favorite but more because we always have the ingredients on hand, unlike the other two,  than because we prefer its taste.  We have enjoyed the other two glazes, too.