August 2026
Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, May 2026
America’s Test Kitchen recently streamlined the article format in Cook's Illustrated, shortening the development stories and introducing a new two-page section called "Dinner Tonight," which features four condensed recipes. This was my first attempt at one of these scaled-down recipes. I used the slightly expanded online version, where several commenter warnings about overcooked fish and undercooked vegetables proved prescient.
To scale the meal down for two, I adapted the recipe using a 10-inch nonstick skillet instead of the specified 12-inch pan. I reduced the cod to ⅔ lb—a practical fit for my frozen fillets—and halved the remaining ingredients. I also picked up a jar of preserved lemon from Whole Foods, an ingredient new to my pantry.
Attempt 1: Following the Script (Scaled Down)
The Process: I layered sliced, unpeeled red potatoes in the skillet, seasoned them with salt and pepper, and topped them with raw onion rings, finely chopped preserved lemon, and a splash of Chardonnay. Covered, the pan boiled for 3 minutes before a quick stir. Next, I placed the cod fillets over the vegetables, covered the pan, and set it to simmer over medium heat.
The Result: After just 5 minutes, the fish was already sitting at well over 150°—way past the targeted 100° midpoint. I scattered fresh green beans, unsalted butter, and more preserved lemon over top, covered, and cooked for a final 5 minutes before finishing with fresh lemon juice and dill. Total time: 45 minutes.
Verdict: Despite execution flaws, the flavor profile was a win. The combination of lemon and potato worked surprisingly well, and the one-pan setup made both cooking and cleanup effortless. However, the online commenters were right: the green beans were underdone, and the fish was noticeably overcooked.
Attempt 2: Course Correction
For round two, I made a few key adjustments to fix the cooking sequence:
Thinner Potatoes: I used a mandoline to slice the potatoes to a uniform 3/16-inch thickness (down from hand-sliced 1/4-inch), ensuring an even, tender bite.
Reordered Stagger: I added the green beans before the fish, letting them steam for 5 minutes first.
Gentler Fish Timing: I set the cod on top of the beans and cooked until it reached an internal temperature of 140° (about 9 minutes).
These adjustments made a night-and-day difference. The cod remained moist, the beans cooked through, and the potatoes were perfectly tender. While tucking the beans under the fish made the plating slightly less photogenic, the improved texture was well worth the trade-off.
Given how basic these timing issues were, it does make me wonder if the condensed "Dinner Tonight" recipes receive the same rigorous testing ATK usually applies to its flagship features. Still, with these small tweaks, it is a keeper.
