Chocolate Biscotti

 April 2025

Recipe from America's Test Kitchen

I first made almond biscotti almost 10 years ago and I enjoyed them so much that I have made them many times in the last decade. From time to time I've looked for a comparable recipe for a chocolate version with no luck, until recently when I saw their preparation demonstrated on the TV show Julia at Home. 

The two biscotti recipes are very similar. Some of the flour in the almond biscotti recipe was replaced with unsweetened cocoa powder (I used Dutch-processed) plus expresso powder and the almond extract was omitted. The almonds were chopped in a food processor with some of them being processed into a fine flour. To this almond flour the AP flour, cocoa powder, espresso powder, baking powder, and salt were added and pulsed in the food processor to combine. Setting the flour mixture aside in a bowl, eggs were processed for 3 minutes then, with the processor running, sugar was slowly added followed by melted butter and vanilla. The egg mixture was transferred to a bowl and half of the flour mixture was gently folded in. Then the remaining flour and chopped nuts were folded in. The slightly sticky dough was divided and shaped into two 8x3-inch loaves, brushed with egg white, and baked. After the loaves had cooled they were carefully cut into ½-inch slices, on a bias, and the slices were baked again on a rack set in a rimmed baking sheet, flipping them halfway through baking. I didn't time how long it took to make these biscotti but it was probably about 2 hours.

One of the beauties of the original recipe is the texture of the biscotti. They are hard and crisp but not teeth-shattering hard. This is also true for the chocolate version. Both types of biscotti are enjoyable to eat and taste great. It is good to now have a choice of two biscottis to make when the urge hits. The chocolate biscotti can also be made with hazelnuts and I would like to try that some day.

Fried Chicken for Two

 March 2025

Recipe from Cook's Country, October 2014

I was attracted to this recipe because it promised fried chicken with less oil than other recipes. Dealing with large quantities of used cooking oil is one of the reasons for not deep frying chicken, or other foods, at home. I have tried several recipes for making fried chicken at home, some with and some without the oil-mess problem. Why not try another.

I used frozen buttermilk; after thawing it was whisked as the components had separated. The resulting buttermilk was not as thick as it had been originally. Four bone-in chicken thighs were trimmed and seasoned with salt and pepper. Flour, baking powder, garlic powder, dried thyme, cayenne, salt, and pepper were combined in a shallow dish. A little buttermilk was added to the flour mixture and rubbed with fingers to form shaggy pieces. Buttermilk was also placed in a separate shallow dish. The chicken pieces were dipped in the buttermilk, dredged in the seasoned flour, placed on a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet, and chilled in the refrigerator for a little over half an hour. Vegetable oil was added to a non-stick, 10" skillet to a depth of ½ inch and heated over medium heat to 350°. The chicken was added skin-side down, covered, and fried until deep golden brown. The cover was removed from the pan, the chicken turned over, and fried to an internal temperature of 175°. Two smaller pieces were done sooner than the two larger pieces. During cooking the burner was adjusted several times to maintain an oil temperature around 300°. The finished chicken rested on paper towels for about five minutes. Total time, including 30+ minutes chilling, was 1 hour 20 minutes.

This is good fried chicken. The coating is crisp without being tough, adheres well to the chicken, and tastes good. The chicken is not too salty or too spicy and is well seasoned with a nice hint of garlic. This recipe provided two meals for the two of us. However the oil did overflow the pan when the chicken and lid were added. If I make this again I might try our other 10" skillet or perhaps use a little less oil. Cleanup was easier because of the availability of an empty oil bottle: I could ladle the used oil into the bottle and then discard it.

M&M Cookies

March 2025

Recipe from Cook's Country, December 2020

I've had M&M cookies but I've never made them myself. They are similar to chewy, buttery chocolate chip cookies, which I make on a regular basis, with M&M's in place of chocolate chips the most obvious  difference. A recent episode of the Cook's Country TV show inspired me to make them myself. As a bit of a bonus the dough is made by hand, no mixer.

I used plain, dark chocolate M&M's because that's what we stock in our cupboard for snacking and for trail mix. Flour, salt, and baking soda were whisked together in a bowl. In a larger bowl melted unsalted butter was whisked with brown sugar and granulated sugar. An egg plus a yolk and vanilla were whisked into the butter mixture until fully combined. Half of the flour mixture was gently stirred into the butter mixture followed by the second half of the flour mixture and the M&M's. The dough was portioned onto a parchment paper lined baking sheet using a #30 scoop. (This is my favorite size for making cookies, the recipe specifies somewhat larger cookies.) I put 8 scoops of dough on the half sheet pan then flattened them to ½-inch disks. These were baked in a hot oven, 425°, for about 8 minutes.  The recipe made 28 cookies in about 65 minutes.

The cookies are blond with a crispy exterior and chewy interior. When I first ate them I thought they were a little bland, perhaps I was unconsciously comparing them to brown butter chocolate chip cookies. They are not very sweet putting a premium on the butter and chocolate flavors. As I've eaten more of them I have grown to like them more and more. These colorful cookies are worth baking again.

Glazed All-beef Meatloaf

 March 2025

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, January 2006

I have tried several different recipes for meatloaf and written about them in this blog. For the last several years my go-to recipe was quick mini-meatloaf. Not only is the size of this dish convenient but it is easy to make and good to eat. I don't know what drew my attention to this older all-beef recipe, perhaps because it was an ATK Staff Selection for their 25th year, but I added it to my list of meatloaf experiments.

Monterey Jack cheese was grated on the medium holes of a box grater, spread on a plate, and placed in the freezer. Freezing prevents it from clumping. A rimmed baking sheet was lined with aluminum foil then a cooling rack was put inside. A perforated 10"x6" piece of foil was placed in the center of the rack. Finely chopped onion and celery were cooked in butter until they started to brown. Minced garlic, fresh thyme, and paprika were added and cooked for a minute then some V8 (in place of tomato juice) was added. This onion mixture was moved to a small bowl. Chicken broth and eggs were whisked in a large bowl then sprinkled with gelatin and let stand to bloom the gelatin. Soy sauce, Dijon mustard, crushed saltine crackers, minced fresh parsley, salt, pepper, and the onion mix were stirred into the egg mixture. The frozen cheese was crumbled into the mixture then ground beef was added (I used 1 pound 93% lean plus 1 pound 85% lean.) and mixed by hand. The meat mixture was transferred onto the foil rectangle on the cooling rack, smoothed with a wet spatula, and baked for about an hour in a 375° oven until the center of the meatloaf was 135°–140°.

While the meatloaf baked a glaze was made by cooking together ketchup, hot pepper sauce (as usual I used half the recipe amount), ground coriander, cider vinegar, and light brown sugar until thickened. Half of the glaze was spread on the meatloaf and broiled until bubbly. The last half of the glaze was then added and broiled again. It took 70 minutes to prepare the meat loaf for baking and a total of 2 hours 40 minutes from start to table.

This meatloaf was bit of a project to make though the ingredients were all pantry staples and nothing was difficult to do. We enjoyed eating it both the day it was made and as leftovers. It is tasty and has a nice tender texture, nothing like a burger, say, due in some part to the inclusion of gelatin in the all-beef mixture. The glaze is well balanced and not too spicy so its flavor did not overwhelm the meat loaf. This meat loaf should keep well in the refrigerator or the freezer and will provide us with many dinners.