Recipe Notes: Classic Sloppy Joes

30 August 2019

Recipe from Cook's Illustrated, May 2019

I have tried many variations of sloppy joes over the years, but I have always preferred an old family recipe. When the Test Kitchen published a new recipe which took a different approach I gave it a try. These sloppy joes were designed to be less sweet than most with tender meat and thicker, less sloppy, sauce. Would this be the recipe to finally replace the one I have known since childhood?

Ground beef (I used home-ground beef chuck) was mixed with a baking soda solution to raise its pH and tenderize the beef. In a skillet, chopped onion was cooked in oil and some baking soda (which helps it break down) until softened. Minced garlic was added and cooked until fragrant followed with brown sugar, paprika, pepper flakes (I halved the amount in the recipe), and salt. This was cooked until the paprika was fragrant. Tomato paste was added and cooked. Next, the beef was added, mixed with the onion mixture, and cooked until there was no more pink meat. Another innovation: the meat mixture was mashed with a potato masher. Ketchup, vinegar, and Worcestershire were added. Finally, a slurry of corn starch was stirred into the mixture to thicken the sauce. Total time to prepare was 45 minutes.

As advertised, these sloppy joes were less sweet, and less sour, than many of the other recipes I have tried. The finely textured meat and thickened sauce made for sloppy joes that were decidedly less sloppy than other versions. It was an okay dish made with some innovative methods. However, I think I'll stick with the old family recipe. I missed the tang and sweetness that I am used to. I like ketchup and miss it in this recipe. Some comfort foods are harder to replace with updated recipes than others.